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Skiing Holidays in the Pyrenees

If you’re searching for a destination with quality skiing, the reassurance of heavy snowfalls and a traditional welcome, relax… you’ve just found it. The French Pyrenees…

WHY GO?

If you’re searching for a destination with quality skiing, the reassurance of heavy snowfalls and a traditional welcome, relax… you’ve just found it. The French Pyrenees are a vast winter wonderland set in a breathtaking yet accessible location between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, close to the borders of Spain and Andorra. These are real mountains, with 575km of high-altitude terrain, groomed to perfection for leisure skiers and families to enjoy, along with extensive off-piste potential for freeriders and ski tourers. They get big snow, too (Cauterets, for example, was named World’s Snowiest Resort in 2013) and as you’ll discover, they all offer a refreshing breath of French air.

WHERE TO STAY

In recent years huge investments have been quietly transforming the ski areas to satisfy a whole new generation of skiers and snowboarders, both on and off the mountain. So when it comes to deciding where to stay, there’s now plenty of choice. Cosy traditional villages in sheltered valley settings are still hugely popular, but if you’d prefer to be closer to the action on the mountain you’ll love the convenience of our ski-in/ski-out villages, from which powerful high-speed lift systems whisk you all the way up to (and sometimes beyond) 2400m, both faster and more smoothly than ever before.

When you get there you can head all the way down the mountain if the mood takes you, as a high proportion of runs are equipped with state-of-the-art snowmaking to keep the slopes open throughout what can be a satisfyingly long season.

THE AREA

Whatever you’re planning, you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised by the friendly company you’ll be keeping, for generations of French families learned to ski in the Pyrenees, and they return each season to enjoy re-skiing their favourite runs with friends old and new. Better still, you’ll find a similarly relaxed, easy-going spirit among local shopkeepers, hoteliers and restaurant owners, who take pride in offering quality service, combined with solid value.

RELAXATION

Talking of relaxation, the region has also long been celebrated for its thermal spas, many of which have also been undergoing something of a transformation. The result is an impressive selection of family-friendly aqua centres where you can unwind in real style at the end of an action-packed day on the mountain. Enjoy a soothing massage or some shameless spa pampering, with saunas, Jacuzzis and fitness suites, or simply let off any remaining steam in large heated indoor pools. Today they’re equipped with fun things like waterfalls, underwater massage jets and more.

HOW TO GET THERE

As for accessibility, there are short transfers from flights into Toulouse, Tarbes Lourdes, Pau, Carcassonne and Perpignan, or if you prefer greener rail travel take the Eurostar to Paris, followed by a smooth, relaxing TGV high-speed rail service to the main cities. Of course, for family and other groups driving can still have its advantages, particularly as you’ll be on the efficient French autoroute network from your choice of Channel port almost all the way to your ski destination.

BOOK

Holiday packages to the French Pyrenees are bookable through UK based specialist Pyrenees Collection

PYRENEESCOLLECTION.CO.UK; 0844 576 0176

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Ski

The Best Ski Resorts for Non-Skiers

Best Ski Resorts for Non-Skiers

Not everyone wants to spend all day on the slopes. We’ve handpicked the best resorts for the non-skiers in your family.

Where to go?

Never have there been more options in ski resorts for ways to have fun and be entertained off the slopes. 

For skiing families, this is doubly important. Some children won’t want to ski all week, but many families will also have non-skiing relatives with them – grandparents and uncles and aunts, invaluable for babysitting duties – and they need to have plenty to do, too. 

FRANCE

Some resorts are better than others at the non-skiing fun list. Perhaps a surprise choice is the architecturally unappealing French resort of Avoriaz, part of the extensive cross-border Portes du Soleil region. It has won awards as a family-friendly destination. 

For a start, it is genuinely car-free, so offers a pleasant environment for those not hitting the slopes. Everything – shops, bars, restaurants – is reached by foot or horse-drawn sleigh. 

The Aquariaz waterpark has a sub-tropical atmosphere and boasts a waterfall and a series of pools, water-jets and slides. There are even currents to float you along and, for the adventurous, a water half-pipe with a 10m drop. Water gym sessions are held regularly. 

It’s the only place we know that features properly organised snowball fights, as well as Sumo wrestling on snow. 

The pretty town of Morzine, with a large range of shops and great for a day out, is easily reached by cable car. 

AUSTRIA

The Austrian village of Ellmau, part of the SkiWelt area of nine interlinked villages, has traditional charm. A bonus for non-skiers is the Hartkaiserbahn mountain railway – a scenic ride up into the skiing area and also an easy way to meet skiers for lunch at the top. 

Ellmau also has horse-drawn sleighs, a leisurely way of taking in the spectacular scenery, as well as curling and tobogganing. The Kaiserbad leisure centre has indoor and outdoor pools, saunas and steamrooms, indoor tennis and squash and a climbing wall. 

The medieval town of Kitzbühel, with its elegant pedestrianised centre of smart shops and lovely bars and restaurants, is also within easy reach by bus or car. 

SWITZERLAND

Another maybe-not-so-obvious choice is the ultra-smart Swiss resort of St Moritz, twice host of the Winter Olympics. Despite its expensive and sophisticated image, there are plenty of non-skiing possibilities here for youngsters and adults. For a start, there are the designer shops of the highest shopping street in Europe, the Via Serlas. You can watch World Cup polo on snow, as well as cricket matches on the lake. 

A visit to one of the grande-dame hotels here is a diversion in itself, even if only to take tea. There is a rack railway to get up the mountain, as well as other fabulously scenic rail trips available from the town’s station, the UNESCO-listed red train for one. 

For a peaceful day out, snowshoeing is a good bet. For those of a more frenetic bent, however, the opportunity to ride the Olympic bobsleigh run, with a professional driver, should satisfy your thrill-seeking side. Speeds of up to 80mph can be reached during the 75-second run of adrenaline-fuelled excitement. 

COLORADO, UNITED STATES

Youngsters could have trouble packing in all the activities that Breckenridge, Colorado, has to offer without ever going near the slopes. They could snowshoe, go snowmobiling, take dog-sled rides, have a trip in a hot-air balloon – and even visit a gold mine. 

The town itself, one of America’s liveliest resorts, and quick and easy to reach from Denver, has loads of shops, a cinema, swimming pool and even an art gallery. 

ITALY

The elegant and attractive ski town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, in the Italian Dolomites, is bursting with non-ski attractions. You can try horse-riding in the snow, indoor tennis, tobogganing, ice skating, ice hockey, curling and even ice disco dancing! Until the end of January, the bobsleigh run is open for rides with a driver and brakeman. 

Après-ski

Fabulous as it is to spend lots of time with the kids on a ski trip, a bit of après-ski for mum and dad can be great, too. Here are some of the liveliest resorts for nightlife:

ISCHGL, Austria 


The acclaimed Alpine capital of après-ski, this Tirolean resort boasts some legendary partying, at bars such as the Trofana Alm, Niki’s Stadl, Kuhstall and Schatzi’s (famous for its mini-dirndl-clad girls dancing on the bar). It even has a Pacha. British babysitting firm Merinannies, which employs local girls, operates here, so babysitting is easy to arrange. But book well in advance, especially at peak times. 


ALPE D’HUEZ, France 

A loyal British following returns to Alpe d’Huez each year. It isn’t pretty, but it has a vibrant nightlife and prices substantially lower than more fashionable resorts. Top venues include O’Sharkeys, Smithy’s, The Crowded House and Freeride. And now it also has a Folie Douce, where you might catch the outrageous Kelly Starlight hosting a cabaret show. Babysitting can be arranged here through Brit-run Snow Angel Nannies.

More info: crystalski.co.uk; vip-chalets.com


ST ANTON AM ARLBERG, Austria 


From mountain huts that rock by the piste to clubs in town, this is one of the world’s top ski destinations for nightlife as well as for fabulous slopes (it’s proud of its claim to be the ‘cradle of skiing’). On the mountain, skiers and boarders are drawn to bars such as Mooserwirt, the Krazy Kangaruh, the Griabli and the Senn Hutte. Intown, the Kandahar, run by Brit Jonathan Verney, and the Funky Chicken are popular. Merinannies also operates here.

More info: espritski.com


LIVIGNO, Italy 

A duty-free enclave in Lombardy (which means shopping for watches and perfume is a major activity), Livigno claims to have more bars than any other ski resort in the world – 150 at the last count. Among the most popular are Kuhstall, Mikey’s Pub, Gulliver Pub, the Echo Pub and, for cocktails, Jpioca. You will manage to visit only a fraction,even withdetermined effort. The tourist office has a list of recommended babysitting agencies.

More info: www.crystalski.co.uk

 

WANT A SKI HOLIDAY BUT DON’T WANT TO BREAK THE BANK? HERE’S HOW TO GO SKIING ON A BUDGET 

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Ski

Ski Schools in Tignes, France

Tignes offers lessons for all abilities, stupendous mountain views and great family facilities.

Why go?

If you’re looking for a family skiing holiday that caters for different levels and needs a mixed-ability group, it’s not easy to find better than Tignes. At 2,100m, it’s a snow-sure destination and, sharing the massive L’Espace Killy with Val d’Isère, offers 320km of trails catering to every level of ability. There’s clear blue sky, jagged mountain peaks, a sweeping expanse of glacier and powder-topped piste – and then there’s the 360° view from the top of Grande Motte telepherique. Skiing really doesn’t get much better. ? 

Who is it good for? Children can learn to ski from the age of four, and the earlier you start them, the more naturally it comes. 

Activities

Ski school: Local ski school Ski Evolution can turn inexperienced skiers into confident jump fanatics. Mornings are spent in ski school learning control and technique and afternoons are used to show off their new-found skills. Beginners have access to nursery slopes (with free lifts) before moving onto a large ‘ski tranquille’ area of long, wide and easy-going green runs – perfect for those looking to practice after a morning of ski school. Pros can take to the ‘naturides’ – groom-free black runs, offering great powder skiing on avalanche-protected pistes.

Aprés ski: For kids there’s husky rides, snowshoeing, sledging runs, ten-pin bowling and a leisure centre with swimming pool and slides – there’s plenty to wear out little legs if the skiing alone hasn’t done the job.

The lowdown

Travel time: Tignes is close to four airports; Chambery-Savoie (1 hour 50 minute transfer), Lyon Saint-Exupéry (2 hour 35 minute transfer), Grenoble-Isère (2 hour 33 minute transfer) and Geneva Cointrin (2 hour 42 minute transfer), all are around 1 hour and 35 minutes from London.

How to get there: Between December and April British Airways flies from London City Airport to Chambery; from £153 return, and from London Heathrow (from £131 return) and London Gatwick (from £79 return) to Geneva, as well as London Heathrow to Lyon (Saint Exupery); from £133. Swiss flies from London Heathrow (from £98 return) and London City (from £104 return) to Geneva. easyJet flies from London Gatwick to Geneva; from £50.98 return, and, between December and March, from London Gatwick to Grenoble; from £57.61 return.

Best time to go: Tignes has one of the longest seasons in the Alps, – thanks to its Grande Motte glacier – running from the beginning of December to mid-May.

More information: skiclub.com / espritski.com / igluski.com

 

Pictures by Corbis, Getty Images, and Shutterstock.com

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Ski

Low Cost Holidays: Skiing on a Budget

A family ski holiday doesn’t have to break the bank. Here’s our guide to having a snowy adventure on a shoestring.

WHY GO?

Careful choice of destination is one key way to keep costs down. If you are a family of beginners, or early intermediates, then eastern Europe – specifically Bulgaria or Romania – is well worth considering.

Inghams can help you experience the country’s very decent skiing at a fraction of the price you’d pay in the major destinations of France, Switzerland, Austria and Italy. All-inclusive is the way to go here. It’s the hyphenated buzzword of the moment in the package-holiday business. 

If you want to save money in the mainstream European ski countries, you don’t have to stay in a resort. Austrian villages some miles away from fashionable ski resorts often have good quality but very economic accommodation in gasthofs – family-run hotels. 

WHERE TO GO

Many insist Borovets and Pamporovo in Bulgaria are two of the best places to learn in Europe. Ski schools are well organised, with good and very keen English-speaking instructors, and equipment is of good quality.

In Poiana Brasov, up the mountain above the not unattractive city of Brasov, Romania, you also have the opportunity to visit the nearby castle of Vlad the Impaler, the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Suitably bloodthirsty and a treat for the children. 

Moving west to Andorra, tucked between France and Spain, and further great deals are to be found. Andorra used to be a bargain-basement ski destination, but it has made determined and not altogether well-thought-out efforts in recent years to move upmarket. 

Arinsal has some high-altitude skiing and virtually guaranteed snow, but also has excellent beginners’ areas and plenty of British, or English-speaking, instructors 

The village of Kolsass-Weer, near Innsbruck, has no skiing to speak of, but resorts such as Mayrhofen, Kitzbühel, Soll and Alpbach are all within easy striking distance, as well as many others only 20 minutes or so away around Innsbruck. 

THE LOWDOWN

Here are some of our favourite holiday packages:

Inghams Chalet Hotel Palarine – £2,214 for a family of four for a week including lift passes, ski and boot hire, ski lessons, half-board accomodation, flights, transfers and lounch vouchers for a mountain restaurant.

Crystal Ski – £1,666 for a family of four for a week, including flights, transfers and half-board accommodation.

Banderitsa Hotel – £1,361.50 for a family of four for a week, including flights, transfers and half-board accommodation.

Balkan Holidays:

Castle Apartments – £1,024.99, for a family of four for a week, including flights from Gatwick and transfers.

Hotel Breza – £1,432.60, for a family of four, including flights, transfers and half-board accommodation.

Hotel Bradul – £1,819.80 for a family of four, in two twin rooms, for a week including flights and transfers and half-board accommodation.

Hotel Rettenberg – £1,300 for a family of four, half-board for seven days.

Gasthof Steixner – £700 for a family of four, half-board for seven days.

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Ski

The Best Ski School for Kids

Before you book your next family ski holiday, find out which resorts have great ski schools for kids.

Standards at ski schools have constantly improved over the years, and the healthy competition between more-recently founded schools at many resorts has helped this. Classes are usually smaller than they used to be (although we do still come across some that are way too large) and most schools have plenty of good English-speaking instructors. A big growth area has been the development of programmes for children.

MAJOR PLAYERS

Some British ski travel operators run their own schools. Esprit Ski is one of the major players here, with schools for children at a dozen resorts across the Alps, and has achieved a considerable reputation for the quality of teaching.Spritelets is for three- and four-year-olds, and is geared towards fun and play with a gentle introduction to skiing. Sprite Beginners is for five- to nine-year-old novices, and Sprite Improvers for more-experienced six-to 10-year-olds. The firm offers a range of courses for older children. 

Resorts covered include Gressoney in Italy, La Rosière, Courchevel 1850, Belle Plagne, Les Gets and Val d’Isère in France, and St Anton and Obergurgl in Austria. La Rosière also has one of the best branches of the Ecole du Ski Français (ESF) we have come across, run by a Brit, astonishingly, and with an English-language section. The chalet holiday firm Mountain Heaven has an excellent selection of catered chalets and self-catered apartments in La Rosière, yards from the slopes.

PRETTY RESORTS

In the attractive little resort of Puy-Saint-Vincent in the southern French Alps, British firm Snow Bizz has its own ski school staffed entirely by English-speaking ESF instructors. A massively loyal British clientele returns year after year, and now former pupils are coming back with their own children to learn with the same highly praised school.

One of the prettiest villages in Austria, Alpbach, in the Tirol, has a great ski school that has had exceptionally close connections with generations of British skiers. Under the guidance of director Sepp Margreiter, many aspiring racers have honed their technique here – and every level and age group is catered for.

Also in the Tirol, there’s a great ski school in Obergurgl that has long been highly regarded, with excellent English spoken by instructors, and classes kept small. The little Tirolean village of Scheffau, part of the extensive interlinked SkiWelt area, also has a very well-organised children’s section in its school, with little ones as young as two having the chance to enjoy the sensation of sliding on the snow.

CANADA AND BEYOND

In Canada, we’ve been impressed by the school at the British Columbia resort of Big White. The children’s centre is ski-in, ski-out, with a huge range of courses tailored for every age and ability level – and there is even an innovative programme for the whole family in which parents are given a grounding on how they can help their children improve.

Powder Byrne, operating in 13 resorts, is another firm that runs its own special ski programme for youngsters. The Yeti scheme takes children from three to nine in an all-day programme that combines ski lessons with apres-ski activities. Powder Byrne also has various courses for older children, including instruction from British Downhill Olympian Martin Bell.

WANT THE HOLIDAY WITHOUT THE BIG BUDGET? FIND LOW-COST FAMILY SKI HOLIDAYS

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Ski

Zermatt: Switzerlands Best Famil Ski

Why go?

We’re standing on the platform at Zurich airport and, as you’d expect in a nation known for the precision of its timekeeping devices, all around us is a picture of calm efficiency. My partner Sophie, one-year-old son Arthur and I are guided to our seats by staff speaking perfect English. Views of towering, snow-capped peaks, wisps of cloud coiling around them like diaphanous silk scarves, render me silent. The three of us stare through the specially designed panoramic windows in wonder.

I feel particularly unencumbered as we’ve not even had to think about our heavy luggage since handing it over to the Swiss airline staff at Heathrow. The company sends the bags straight on to Hotel Bahnhof Zermatt – and, yes, as it’s Switzerland, I have complete confidence they will be there when we arrive. On arrival at Zermatt, a flurry of hotel staff and taxis help guests load their bags into a mix of small electric cars and horse-drawn carriages for the onward journey to their hotel.

The Matterhorn, which towers over the town, is the most-photographed mountain in the worldand it’s easy to see why. Visible from almost everywhere in Zermatt – and on the slopes that surround it – this 14,690ft alpine icon provides a spectacular backdrop. The mountain also provides a useful reference point as you move between Zermatt’s three main ski areas– Rothorn,Gornegrat and Schwarzee. There are 50 to choose from on the mountain itself and more than 100 others in the town. So good is Zermatt’s culinary scene that the airline Swiss offers signature dishes from Chez Vrony and Findlerhof. 

Babysitting: Kinderparadies is a crèche for younger children of three months and upwards. Prices are from £87 per child, per day. 

Kids from four can attend ski school. We recommend Stoked, which costs £374 per week, not including equipment hire. The school also operates a kids’ skiing race every Friday.

Baby friendly break?

Those with younger children needn’t worry that they’ll be stuck in the chalet watching Peppa Pig dubbed into German. Childcare is on hand for kids of three months upwards and older ones can attend a combination of crèches and ski schools for full- or half-days. Yes, these are add-ons you’ll have to budget for but, given the location and level of service, they’re not unreasonable.

We were overjoyed to enjoy the daylight hours on the slopes, squeezing in a glass of glu?hwein by the fire at the Cervo Mountain Boutique Hotel before picking Arthur up at 5pm. Yes, it may cost a modest premium over other ski resorts, but this buys you a huge return in terms of experience.

The lowdown

Where to stay:

Hotel Bahnhof Zermatt

Bella Vista Hotel

La Ginabelle

Hotel Julen

Schweizerhof

Getting there: Swiss flies from London Heathrow to Zurich, from £151 return. The airline will also send your bags direct to your final destination. Rail transfers with Swiss Railways from Zurich to Zermatt from £85

Best time to go: Eurpoes ski seasons fall across winter with the warmest ski month being March. for further information on the Matterhorn Ski Paradise area go to visit.zermatt.ch

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Ski

What to Pack for a Family Ski Holiday

Here are the essential items for your family snow holiday.

What to pack for a family ski holiday

Lots of layers

Vests, t-shirts and long-sleeved tops.

Buy: Uniqlo’s Heattech tops come in a multitude of colours and styles; from £9.

 

Ski socks

These will make ski boots comfier. Take about four or five pairs per person.

Buy: Snow + Rock sell child-sized ski socks; from £2.99.

 

Ski gloves

It’s worth taking two pairs each. Mittens generally keep hands warmer and if it’s really cold, take glove liners.

Buy: Try Hestra or Barts, two top brands.

 

Goggles 

To protect eyes from snow and sun.

Buy: Scott, Bolle or Bloc are recommended.

 

Wraparound sunglasses 

Buy: Zoobug’s selection are made for babies, toddlers and children up to 12; from £28. 

 

A warm hat

For early season skiing we’d also recommend a balaclava (or helmetclava, which is worn under the helmet).

Buy: Nothing beat’s Brora for softness, but it comes with a price tag. For more affordable options visit Cotswold Outdoor.

 

Helmets

These can be rented in resorts alongside skis.

Buy: If you want to invest in your own don’t buy online, you should go into a shop and make sure it fits properly. Snow+Rock, Blacks and Cotswold Outdoor all stock good brands such as Salomon, Quicksilver and Giro.

Your kids might like the cool Headzstong helmet covers – good for spotting them on the slopes too.

 

Ski jacket

If you’re going at the end of the season you may like to take a thinner waterproof jacket.

Buy: All of the aforementioned stores stock good brand jackets, as does Surfdome, or for a bargain visit your nearest TK Maxx.

 

Salopettes/ski trousers

Buy: Again, visit Blacks, Snow+Rock, Cotswold Outdoors, Columbia or Surfdome for sturdy kit.

 

Snow boots or wellies

Buy: Trekwear has a collection of snowboots; from £12.94, or if you’d rather wellies, try Hunter; from £25.

 

Sun cream and lip block

Buy: Check out our article on our favourite sunscreens.

 

Backpacks or bum bags 

Great for carrying your essentials while out on the slopes for the day.

Buy: Surfdome has a wide range, for adults and children, with brands such as Animal, Vans, Converse and Roxy; from £16.99.

 

Walkie talkies 

Great for communicating across mountains.

Buy: Choose from a selection at Amazon; from £16.99.

 

Top tip: You will be able to buy everything you need in the ski resort, but it will be a lot more expensive

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Ski

Family Traveller Interviews Drew Tabke

Family Traveller interviews Freeride World Tour 2013 ski champion Drew Tabke about his favourite family ski destinations and gives us his top tips on how to get your kids into skiing – enjoy!

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Ski

Travelling by Train to your Ski Holidays

What if you travelled to your ski holiday by train instead this year? Terribly tedious? Or will the wonderful views and freedom to roam keep the kids calm and entertained?

Watch out for the January-February 2015 issue of Family Traveller magazine, where Daniel will be telling you where and how to travel by train to your next ski trip…

Don’t miss this issue – subscribe the magazine here.

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Europe News Story Ski

Val Thorens Altapura Launches New Ski Bar

What’s new? The Altapura has just re-opened complete with a brand new, ski-inspired bar. Designed using old ski equipment, the bar is comprised of more than 60 pairs of various coloured ski boots and 20 skis. It is lit by chandeliers made from a 100 ski polls and instead of the usual barstools and tables and chairs, six old chairlifts were refitted to be used as seating in the lounge area. The creative new Ski Bar is a great place to unwind after a long day on the slopes while enjoying a hot mulled wine and Altapura’s ‘fondue trees’.

There is an interactive Kids’ Area for children aged three to 12 years old, with a Kids’ Concierge who organises fun, education games where children will learn about the snow and mountains surrounding them, cultural adventures, surprise dinners at the Table de Enfants, and other forms of entertainment for its little guests. Children will also enjoy the ‘igloo’ in the Pure Altitude Spa where they can swim with the snowflakes in the spa’s indoor/outdoor pool. 

The convenient property has an in-house ski shop and the slopes are walking distance from reception. The Val Thorens pistes are great for beginner and intermediate skiers and ski instructors can be arranged for guests of all ages, so every member of the family can enjoy the powder.

If skiing isn’t of interest, families can go tobogganing on Val Thorens six kilometer toboggan run, the longest run in Europe. 

Altapura offers several interconnecting rooms for families, complete with the latest technology, including a mini Mac with an HD TV screen where they can watch new movies for free, which will keep older children entertained and connected to their friends via various sources of social media. 

 

THE LOWDOWN:

Travel time: Flights from London to Lyon are approximately 1 hour and 35 minutes. Train rides from London St. Pancras to Moutier-Salins are approximately 9 hours.

Transfer time: Lyon is approximately a 2 hour and 30-minute drive from Altapura. From Moutier-Salins station it is approximately a 45-minute drive to Val Thorens. Transfers by bus or taxi are available from Moutier-Salins station to Val Thorens; rates from £79 for a taxi; bus rates from £8 for adults and from £4 for children.

How to get there: Fly with easyJet from London Gatwick to Lyon; from £61 return. Fly with British Airways from London Heathrow; from £113 return. Take the Eurostar Ski Train from London St. Pancras to Moutiers-Salins; from £149 return for adults and £104 return for children. 

Price: Rates are from £244 on a B&B basis.

Book: altapura.fr