Category: Middle East

Categories
Oman

Middle East Holiday: Oman

Sarah Siese and her daughters discover that Oman has something to delight travellers of every age.

Why go?

We just can’t help ourselves. We keep coming back. Over the past 10 years, my three daughters and I have sailed around Oman’s islands, sleeping on deck under the stars, followed ancient watering systems along valleys, found hidden villages, gone wadi-bashing and dune skiing, swum with turtles and shopped in colourful souks.

On our first trip, looking at their proximity on the map, I thought Oman must be the new Dubai. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. Yes, they both share the same latitude and climate, both have golden desert lands and cerulean coastlines, but Oman has a conspicuous historic culture and sense of place that you don’t encounter in its sister state.

On all counts, Oman is a treasure trove of experiences for families. It’s sunny, clean, has next to no crime, is exceptionally friendly and more than half the population speaks English. Travelling with children means swimming comes before souks and henna before history, but with a bit of careful planning, we’ve always struck a good balance.

The charm of this quiet land – where camels mingle with limousines and ancient forts have satellite dishes – lies in its subtle and unassumingly gentle way of introducing tourists to its natural wonders and age-old Islamic-cum-Bedouin culture. 

DISCOVER THE TOP 10 HOTELS IN OMAN PERFECT FOR YOUR FAMILY HOLIDAY

What to see

HEAD TO THE CAPITAL

The capital, Muscat, is a singularly sanitary city where you’re fined more for a dirty car than for breaking the speed limit. The spotless roads are lined with whitewashed villas, manicured municipal gardens and gleaming vehicles that look like they’ve just driven off a forecourt. Locals are particularly proud of their new opera house and elegant mosque, which cost more than £177 million. Its cool, shiny marble exterior defies the intricate grandiosity that lies within. We all marveled at the largest carpet in the world, an Iranian masterpiece, which took 600 women three years to weave, not to mention the 7-tonne Swarovski crystal chandelier that radiates a golden light over the 6,000 all-male congregation. Children over 10 are allowed in the mosque, but need to cover their heads with the scarves that are provided at the entrance.

EXPLORE THE COASTLINE

Down on the coast, the colourful Sultan’s Palace is flanked by two forts that were built by the Portuguese in 1587, strategically placed to guard the entrance to the city. A little further along, there was an eye-opener for the children, packed to the brim with white-robed men touting a ‘stinky’ array of giant gambas, waisthigh tuna and trumpet fish. The nearby souk was great for souvenir shopping and local goods such as painted perfume bottles, precious frankincense, and traditional dishdashas worn by Omani men (irresistible at a mere £10). 

Hundreds of metres of private shoreline at the Al Bustan Palace’s scenic beach are a paradise for families. A red carpet is rolled out every morning from the hotel to the shore so you don’t scorch your feet on the sand. We snorkelled with the resident turtles and, just as we despaired of seeing dolphins in the bay, spotted three of them gracefully dipping and diving only metres from the shore, then rushed to the tennis lesson. The Discover Scuba course was a big hit, too.

What to do

SET SAIL FOR ADVENTURE

After a quick trip to the supermarket for supplies, we drove to the new marina at The Wave and boarded a catamaran. The children were anxious about the charter, but soon squealed with delight as they checked out their cabins and met Captain Abdullah (a master of card tricks and paddle board racing). They later declared this their favourite bit of the holiday. We headed due north to the Daymaniyats, a small cluster of about nine uninhabited islands about 12 miles off the Omani coast. Still uncharted and relatively remote, they’ve recently been declared a national park. They’re as unspoilt as anything you’ll find in the Indian Ocean and are top of the list for those looking for an adventure.

At night we relaxed on the deck under shooting stars to the sound of waves breaking on the reef and the gentle creak of the boom. Atdawn we swam to the shore, hovering over shoals of fusilier, parrot and angel fish. The water was a balmy 30C and the air was a hairdryer-hot 36C. We drifted over planets of corals, slowly taking in the galaxy of underwater worlds that were home to strands of long-haired purple and yellow corals as well as colourful angel and damson fish. We even found Nemo!

DESERT SAFARI

The southern slopes of the Hajar Mountains, which drop from heights of more than 3,000m straight into the warm Gulf, are famous for their oasis villages and date groves – in stark contrast to the sand dunes of the sparsely populated Wahiba desert. An off-road, roller-coaster ride across the waves of the ever-changing pattern of dunes towards the desert camp had us all screaming with excitement. Later, I sat in my tent listening to the children gleefully running down dunes in the dark. Hud Hud’s safari accommodation, in six canvas bell tents complete with solar showers and wooden pit loos, is designed for comfort. After a spot of stargazing and a full day’s exploring, hiking, swimming and eating, we fell onto comfortable mattresses dressed in crisp white linen to the sound of, well, nothing.

The next morning we woke to a breakfast fit for a sultan: fresh fruit, cereals, chilli omelette, local yogurt and honey from the Hajar Mountains. Just outside the enclosure were various tracks made in the night: antelope, birds of prey and snakes had all left their tell-tale prints. We met up with a Bedouin tribe exercising their camels and followed them some way, taking in the flora and fauna of the desert. You can choose to ride their camels, drive up and down the vertiginous dunes or just take in the vast space and pure peace of the dunes. 

We stopped in the ancient capital Nizwa to admire the elaborate filigree work on the silver daggers being sold in the recently renovated souk and enjoyed the banter and bartering of locals in the fruit and vegetable market. Early every Friday morning, market day, there are hectic scenes of cattle and goat trading. A stretch of winding road took us to the jewel of the Hajar Mountains. Our ears popped as we climbed more than 3,000m to the summit of Jebel Al Akhdar (Green Mountain).  Wild juniper, peach, orange, apricot and grapevines clung to the slopes against all odds.

Where to stay

After all our touring around, the Alila Jabal Akhdar hotel offered a blissful retreat. Perched on the edge of a plateau 2000m above sea levels, naturally the views are spectacular. The hotel is built in stone and blends beautifully with its surroundings. Decorative iron work abounds in the from of chandeliers, light fixtures and panelling and Omani artefacts and fabrics add to the appeal. 

The hotel was ‘so quiet it hurts my ears’, said one daughter. Unused as we are to absolute tranquillity, its abnormal stillness lulled is into an instant state of peace and relaxation. It was the perfect ending to our most recent foray into Arabia.

DISCOVER THE TOP 10 HOTELS IN OMAN PERFECT FOR YOUR FAMILY HOLIDAY

Where to eat

STREET EATS

With a multicultural population and a rich harvest from the sea, Oman has plenty of culinary variation, and something to entice visitors of all ages. For an authentic dining experience, there’s no shortage of typical Omani food to be found – look out for Schwarma (kebab-style meat in pitta with tomatoes and garnish), falafel and Turkish coffee. The street food is delicious and great if you need to eat on the hoof, and Mezze (tapas-style dishes) is a brilliant way to sample lots of local flavours.

LOCAL FAVOURITE: BIN ATEEQ 

You’ll find plenty of Indian and Turkish restaurants in Muscat, but if you want an authentically Omari meal, try Bin Ateeq on Sultan Qaboos Street, Muscat, next to Pizza Express. The surroundings aren’t the most glamorous, but you’ll definitely feel part of the local culture, sitting on an old carpet beside Omani traders, and tucking into authentic local dishes.

BEST BURGERS: SLIDER STATION  

While hamburgers may not be the most traditional Omani dish, Slider Station, in Muscat’s Oasis by the Sea mall, is popular with families. Picture a sushi conveyor belt containing mini burgers, and you’ve got the idea. Just make sure you leave room for their famously gooey chocolate dessert.

The lowdown

How to get there: Gulf Air, which has a Sky Nanny service, flies to Muscat from £324 return. Flights with Oman Air cost from £335 return.

Where to stay: The Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort in Muscat is great for families. Rooms cost from £115 per night (shangri-la.com). The Al Bustan Palace sits in an oasis between the beach and the mountains and rooms cost from £180 a night. The Alila Jabal Akhdar hotel costs from £190 per night. Tailormade packages can be arranged via Holiday: Heaven on Earth.

When to go: The most pleasant time to visit is between October and April when temperatures average between 25C and 35C during the day. It’s generally 10° cooler in the mountains. 

Discover more family-friendly hotels in Oman. 

Categories
Abu Dhabi

An Abu Dhabi Family Adventure

An Abu Dhabi family adventure

The Middle East is fast becoming the go-to family holiday destination. Jane Knight and her six-year-old head to Abu Dhabi for fun among the dunes.

WHY GO

Abu Dhabi is the rising star of tourism in the Emirates. It has some unique offerings for families, with more to come when the Louvre and the Guggenheim open outposts there in the next few years. During a week’s stay, as well as the desert, my son Christian and I took in an island outpost populated with safari animals, and of course the city, home to the world’s biggest falcon hospital as well as its fastest roller coaster, at Ferrari World.

Who knew the desert could be so much fun? But then Abu Dhabi as a whole is a surprise paradise for adventure-seeking families who want a little more than the normal fly-and-flop holidays in the sun.

ACTIVITIES

THE DESERT

Abu Dhabi is essentially the world’s biggest sandpit. Around us, dunes rise like never-ending mountain ranges. Here is no one else in sight – it’s just Christian and me, with our guide in Abu Dhabi’s Empty Quarter, the largest uninterrupted area of sand dunes in the world. What do we do in all this sandy solitude? We play. There are sand angels to make, slopes to slide down, lizard tracks to follow and tales of a spider the size of a dinner plate to hear.

Then, at the top of an impossibly high slope, our guide tells us it’s time to hear the sand sing. Slowly we start our rhythmic descent, our feet causing whole rivers of sand to flow down before us. Sure enough, as our steps displace the air between the tiny grains, a thrumming, humming noise begins, gathering momentum as we do. There’s just time for a game of sand noughts and crosses as the sun dips magnificently in the sky.

HOTEL ACTIVITIES

The wonder doesn’t stop when you enter the luxury fortress that is Anatara’s Qasr Al Sarab. There are many activities on offer for children, from camel rides to cookery classes, as well as complimentary pilates and yoga in the dunes for parents.

FERRARI WORLD THEME PARK

At Ferrari World theme park, Christian was thrilled to gain his ‘driving licence’ on the mini Ferraris, while I brave the Formula Rossa, which accelerates to 150mph in just 4.9 seconds. I’m a bit alarmed to be handed a pair of goggles. Will I be going so fast that the 1.7 G-force means my eyeballs will be sucked out? No, I’m told. It’s to stop the desert sand getting in my eyes, as the ride goes outside.

We also pay a visit to the biggest falcon hospital in the world, which deals with 6,000 avian patients a year. These majestic birds are treated like royalty in the Middle East. They have their own passports and are even allowed to travel on their owners’ fists on Arab airlines.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

Riding and diving experiences are available, as is kayaking through the mangroves – something not to be missed. As we paddle, a smudge of pink flamingos flies across the azure sky. Then a movement in the water catches our eye and we watch entranced as five gazelles swim from a white-sand bar back toland, their heads bobbing in a row.

Even better is our wadi walk, where we follow both gazelle and hyena tracks to a small body of water in a dip at the bottom. This rocky gash in the landscape is an artist’s palette of colours; the rock walls are striped sulphur yellow, iron red and green from oxidised copper.

What to see

Driving through this city of superlatives is a bit tame after the Formula Rossa roller coaster, though it’s interesting to see the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, which holds the world’s largest hand-knotted carpet and chandelier, and the Hyatt Capital Gate hotel, which was built to lean four times as much as the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

We certainly clock up a lot of wildlife in Abu Dhabi, which is the surprising home to giraffe, hyenas, cheetahs and golden jackals as well as the more expected gazelles and Arabian oryx. We see them all on Yas island, 155 miles from the capital, where they were first gathered back in the 1970s, in Noah’s ark fashion, under Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, founder of the United Arab Emirates. It isn’t Africa – many of the animals are sectioned off in compounds where they have water troughs and food – but it is an easy introduction to safari, and is particularly good for young children.

On our ‘game drive’ we spot a cheetah cub on our two-hour outing, as well as a family of wide-eyed ostrich, which, my son is delighted to hear, have eyes larger than their brains. The 54sq mile scrubby island isn’t the most scenic of places, but the animal viewing is excellent.

Where to eat

The food at the desert fortress Qasr Al Sarab is amazing, even without considering that you’re in a desert, produced by an inventive chef who was trialling a pancake muffin mix during our visit, and who has healthy chicken escalopes masquerading as chicken nuggets on the kids’ menu.

Abu Dhabi’s restaurants offer a vibrant and varied mix of international flavours and impressive culinary standards, with plenty of great child-friendly options.

Try Dine at the Aloft Hotel. Kids will love the beanbag seating (don’t worry, you can have a chair) in this fun, colourful restaurant. The fast food menu also includes some healthier kid-friendly options.

Noodle House at Souk Qaryat Al Beri serves reasonably-priced Asian food and children’s meals are served with cute mini chopsticks.

Where to stay

EASTERN MANGROVES HOTEL & SPA BY ANANTARA

Anantara has a range of family-friendly properties, and rooms can generally take two adults and one child. We chose Anantara’s Desert Islands Resort hotel, where we tuck into the evening buffet before settling down outside on bean bags to watch the evening screening – Megamind – accompanied by free popcorn. It’s one of the nice touches to a stay here, which also involves a mad pizza-making session, where the chef initiates a flour fight as the children make their own pizzas. It’s the only hotel on the island, and while not particularly luxurious, it is ideal for families, as are Anantara’s other properties in the desert and the city.

 

ANANTARA SIR BANI YAS ISLAND AL YAMM VILLA RESORT, ABU DHABI

On the island of Sir Bani Yas, the hotel group has a cluster of sea villas on a much better beach than that enjoyed by the main hotel, as well as a group of desert villas inside the wildlife park for a more up-close animal experience. Much swisher than the main hotel, they are perfect for a one-night family getaway.

 

QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA

But neither is as special as Qasr Al Sarab, the desert fortress just a couple of hours from the city. It’s quite simply the best desert camp I’ve been to, giving you just enough of a brush with adventure to satisfy your inner Lawrence of Arabia along with great dollops of luxury. There are the elegant but ethnic rooms, with stone floors and kilim rugs, flatscreen TVs and plunge pools. Best of all, though, all the rooms have huge balconies that are perfect for watching the sun rise or set over the dunes.

The lowdown

Price: A week’s holiday for a family of four, staying one night in the city, three nights at Anantara Desert Islands Resortand three nights at Qasr Al Sarab, costs from £2,687 per person, including breakfast, flights and transfers, with Scott Dunn.

How to get there: Etihad flies to Abu Dhabi from London from £400 return. Rotana Jet has onward flights to Yas Island from £77 return.

When to go: Don’t even think of going in summer – Abu Dhabi can be punishingly hot, particularly in the desert. It’s best to travel between November and March for temperatures below 30C, but take something warm for desert nights.

 

Categories
Adventure Camping Middle East News Story

Experience a Stay in Dubai’s Desert

Family travel specialist tour operator Tots Too is launching a desert camp experience in Dubai called Bedouin Oasis.

Situated in one of the most beautiful desert settings in the UAE, less than an hour’s drive from central Dubai, the camp will offer families an opportunity to live out in the desert in one of 50 beautifully furnished bell tents, complete with two pools.

ACTIVITIES

Daily activities include desert jeep safaris with a specialist guide, dune buggying, nature walks, camel trekking and falconry. There will also be delicious Arabic meals under the stars.

 

 

THE LOWDOWN

Tots Too offers a three-night stay at Bedouin Oasis from £2,950 per family of two adults and two children under 12, including flights, private transfers and full-board accommodation, excluding drinks.

Categories
Adventure Middle East News Story

Undiscovered Oman

Way down in the south of Oman it’s a world away from the dramatic dunes of the north. The lush Indian Ocean setting of Salalah with its white sand beaches, tropical flamingos and turtles, mountain ranges and fresh water springs is a family holiday waiting to be discovered by Brits.

Hire a car and spent a day hiking the Frankincense Trail which covers downtown Salalah, Khor Rohri and Ubar, which is rumoured to be the lost city of Atlantis of the Sands, discovered by Wilfred Thesiger. A thrilling proposition for any child.

A trip to Oman has to include a camel ride and Salalah’s proximity to the Empty Quarter makes it the perfect place for a riding lesson.

 

THE LOWDOWN

Best time to go: Surprisingly, this region is at its best during the rainy season in July and August with stunning greenery and crashing waterfalls – perfect for school summer holidays.

Where to stay: The Salalah Beach Resort opens in March 2014 with 399 rooms and suites with several private villas and apartments. There’s a beach club and a kids’ club too.

Price: Double rooms from £207 per night with breakfast for a family of four. Oman Air offers return flights from London Heathrow to Salalah from £576 per person.

Categories
Africa Beach Middle East

Egypt Holidays: Red Sea Coast Guide

Bike in Dublin

EGYPT HOLIDAYS: RED SEA COAST GUIDE

Take a camel ride, go on a desert safari, or take the kids to an amusement park in the Red Sea region of Egypt.


WHY GO?

Egyptians are very fond of children and in most places they will never be seen as disruptive or as a nuisance. This is with the exception of fine dining restaurants and bars where there is an age limit in the evening. Otherwise the locals take their offspring wherever they go and you can happily do the same!

As a rule the holiday resorts all have playgrounds and children’s swimming pools and in some cases there are petting zoos or farmyards. There are usually also daily activities, all with supervision.


Activities

Amusement & Aqua parks: A day at one of these parks does not come cheaply (day ticket from around £E 180) but they are always a hit with children. The largest in the Red Sea region are the Cleopark in Sharm El-Sheikh and the Titanic Aquapark in Hurghada, the latter has some exciting water slides – at least a dozen of them. The Cleopark has a pharaonic theme and a wave pool. The Kid’s Arcade is an amusement centre in Sharm El Sheikh that has fun fair rides, arcade games, carousels and slides.

Ice skating: Who would have thought you can ice skate in the desert? Ice rinks in the desert do of course impact on the environment but since they are available why not take a break from the heat and enjoy a family fun day. The Red Sea has two, both are in Sharm El-Sheikh: Soho Square Ice Rink andHany’sIceSkating(WhiteKnight Beach | tel. 069 3 60 14 60).

Mosques and minarets: Non-Muslims can also enter mosques during the day. Most of those on the Red Sea were built in recent decades but on the promenade in El Quseir you’ll find a real historical gem. The Sheikh al-Farran mosque has a section behind an extension that dates back to 1704and you can climb up the old minaret with your children.

Riding: Some riding schools offer pony rides and the hotels that work with the Bedouin, also offer camel riding lessons. Yalla Horsestable in El Gouna even offers youngsters donkey rides for around £E 140 per hour. The stables at the Mövenpick Resort El Quseir offer horse and camel riding under professional supervision. The Sofitel Equestrian Centre  in Sharm El-Sheikh has child-friendly ponies.

Safaris: A desert safari is a great adventure for children: they get to sit around the camp- fire and sleep under the stars. Bedouin guides tend to be as concerned about the safety of children as if they were their own. It’s easy to book an overnight outing like this in the resorts and hotels on the Sinai Peninsula. However, multi-day camel trips are too strenuous for them and a Jeep is a more suitable option. These trips can be undertaken from the coastal resorts on the Gulf of Aqaba and you can com- bine one with a detour to the Coloured Canyon. The landscape is so spectacular your kids will think they’re part of an exciting adventure film.


The Lowdown

Travel time: Flights from London to Hurghada take approximately 5 hours and 15 minutes. Flights from London to Sharm El Sheikh take approximately 5 hours and 30 minutes.

How to get there: Fly direct with easyJet from London Gatwick to Hurghada; from £146 return, or from London Gatwick to Sharm El Sheikh; from £152 return. Fly with EgyptAir from London Heathrow to Hurghada; from £420 return, or from London Heathrow to Sharm El Sheikh; from £435.

Top tips: Read a Marco Polo travel guide before you go on your family holiday.